Mustache Trends In The Old West

From the 1880s to the late 1890s, men's mustaches were at their peak of popularity. In fact, from the 1880s and really into the period just before World War I, mustache trends and popular facial hair fashion during the late Victorian and Edwardian eras can be boiled down to the "handlebar" mustache, which is worn long with curled ends, and the "walrus" mustache, which is worn thick, very bushy, and hanging over the mouth. 

The "handlebar" mustache and its variations were often associated with full, curled, or waxed "handlebar" mustaches, as well as the thick "walrus" mustache. These elaborate facial hairstyles were often maintained with specialized wax and grooming tools.  It ranged from the moderate, waxed tips to the extreme "mousetrap" style. It required maintenance, wax, and in some cases curlers, making it a sign of a man with time to focus on his appearance.

The "walrus" mustache was seen as the epitome of rugged, distinguished masculinity, often associated with intellectuals, outdoorsmen, manliness, and politicians like Theodore Roosevelt. It was deliberately unruly and signaled a "no-nonsense" attitude, despite often being meticulously groomed to look chaotic.

Why did these styles dominate the times? They served as a defining symbol of Victorian masculinity, social status, and maturity. But mostly, it was influenced by military fashion to emulate the dandier, athletic, or military look of the time. 

We have to keep in mind that, in many Western countries, military facial hair was widely used to distinguish rank and signify toughness. The "handlebar" and "walrus" mustache was a general reaction to the trends of the 1860s and 1870s. While beards had been popular earlier in the 19th century, by the 1880s the trend shifted toward men with "clean-shaven" cheeks and chins. So yes, men wore large "handlebar" and "walrus" mustaches, often with short-cropped hair and clean-shaven cheeks and chins.

 

As for the cultural significance of those style mustaches? At the time, a man with a mustache was seen as being more self-confident, healthy, and someone dashing with an adventurous air, yet still mature. Presenting a well-groomed mustache was considered an essential style accessory for a gentleman. In an attempt to reflect strength, health, and self-confidence, it became very common to see men wearing either style of mustache. Young men often wore them to look more distinguished, mature, and credible. 

How prevalent were those two styles? By the end of the century, the fashion of men wearing a handlebar or walrus mustache was so common that it was sometimes seen as a requirement for men of a certain class. And as for what helped to push that as a cultural trend of the times? Those two styles were popularized by military figures, politicians like Theodore Roosevelt, and the upper class figures. It was a widespread trend in both Europe and the United States.

Yes, from the 1880s to the late 1890s, men's mustaches were at their peak in popularity, often referred to as the "golden age" of the mustache. Following the decline of the full, bushy beard, the standalone, well-groomed mustache became a staple of masculinity, elegance, and social status in Western society, particularly in Victorian society. 

1880s Earp Brothers

As stated before, the iconic mustache styles of that era were defined by bold handlebar mustaches, waxed and curled at the ends, and thick, drooping walrus mustaches.

As for Grooming? Men used mustache wax to shape their mustaches and specialized tools like mustache cups, which featured a guard to protect the wax from hot tea or coffee, keeping their mustaches shaped and looking pristine. It's true, the popularity of these elaborate, waxed styles led to the invention of "mustache cups," which featured a ledge (guard) to protect the wax and style from hot liquids.

By the turn of the century, a transition was underway. As the 1890s ended and the 1900s approached, the trend shifted again toward being "completely clean-shaven." This shift was accelerated by the 1895 invention of the disposable safety razor by King Camp Gillette, which made shaving cheaper and easier.

By the end of the 19th century, the era of the giant, waxed mustache was largely considered old-fashioned, though it remained popular throughout the 1900s and 1910s before World War I made clean-shaven faces standard. 

Let's also remember that, as World War I began, the fad of massive mustaches worn by men like the Earp brothers had already begun to disappear. The biggest reason was that they had become impractical for the military. That was largely because the need to wear gas masks, especially in the trenches of World War I, when gas warfare was a real threat, meant men had to shave or significantly trim their facial hair to get a good seal on their masks.

Tom Correa